How to Mount a GoPro on a Motorcycle Helmet: Step-by-Step Guide

The BEST GoPro Helmet Mount Setup (for EVERY Helmet) | *Plus GoPro settings!*

Mounting a GoPro to a motorcycle helmet is straightforward — but there are several decisions that significantly affect the quality of your footage, the security of the mount, and whether your camera survives a crash. This step-by-step guide covers the three most common mounting methods with specific hardware recommendations for each helmet type.

The Three Main Ways to Mount a GoPro on a Motorcycle Helmet

Method 1: Chin Mount (Best for Full-Face Helmets)

The chin mount is the recommended position for motorcycle filming. The camera sits on the chin bar of your full-face helmet, pointing forward, at roughly eye level.

What you need:

  • GoPro Helmet Chin Mount (~$49.99) OR a compatible third-party chin mount (ULANZI U-400 ~$18, Telesin ~$15)
  • GoPro Hero 13 (or any current GoPro)
  • Optional: Anti-vibration mount pad if you’re on a high-vibration bike

Step-by-step installation:

  1. Identify the correct chin bar adapter for your helmet — the GoPro Helmet Chin Mount ships with multiple adapter plates for different chin bar widths
  2. Slide the adapter around the chin bar and fasten the two securing screws finger-tight first to confirm it sits level
  3. Tighten the screws firmly with the included hex key — the mount should not move when you pull it forward or sideways
  4. Click the GoPro onto the mount’s quick-release clip
  5. Adjust the camera angle downward approximately 10–15° from straight ahead — this compensates for the natural forward lean of your head when riding
  6. Test-record a 30-second clip and review the angle before your first ride

How to check the angle is right: The horizon should appear in the upper third of the frame when you’re in your normal riding position. Too high and you’ll see only road. Too low and you’ll see sky.

Method 2: Top Mount (For Any Helmet Type)

The top mount attaches to the top or back of the helmet and is the standard method for open-face, modular, and half-helmets where a chin mount isn’t possible.

Option A — Vented Helmet Strap Mount (no adhesive, reversible):

  • GoPro Vented Helmet Strap Mount (~$19.99) — adjustable strap fits around any helmet vent system
  • Position the camera as far forward on the helmet as the strap allows
  • Run the strap through two adjacent vents, tighten, and clip the GoPro on
  • Limitation: not as secure as adhesive mounts; can slip on smooth shells

Option B — Adhesive Curved Mount (permanent, most secure):

  • GoPro Curved Adhesive Mount (~$8 for 3-pack)
  • Clean the helmet surface with the included alcohol wipe — adhesive fails on dirty or waxed surfaces
  • Peel the 3M backing and press the mount firmly for 60 seconds in the centre of the top of the helmet
  • Allow 24 hours cure time before riding — the 3M VHB adhesive needs this time to reach full strength
  • Attach the GoPro mount buckle and twist-lock it into position

Important: Adhesive mounts are semi-permanent. Removal is possible but may leave residue or damage helmet paint. Consider this before committing to a smooth-shell helmet.

Method 3: Side Mount

Side mounting uses the same adhesive or strap system as the top mount but positioned at the temple or side of the helmet. This gives an offset angle rather than the standard forward POV.

When to use side mount: For variety shots and creative B-roll when you have a second camera or are doing slow-speed riding. Not recommended for sustained motorway riding due to aerodynamic drag and lateral vibration.

Which Mount Position Is Right For You?

Helmet Type Recommended Mount Product
Full-face (road) Chin mount GoPro Helmet Chin Mount or ULANZI U-400
Full-face (motocross) Chin mount GoPro Helmet Chin Mount with breakaway
Modular/flip-front Top mount (chin works if chin bar is solid) GoPro Vented Strap or adhesive
Open-face / 3/4 Top mount GoPro Vented Strap
Half helmet Top mount (compact camera only) Adhesive curved mount

Securing the Mount for Highway Speeds

At motorway speeds, aerodynamic forces put stress on both the camera and mount. These steps prevent camera loss:

  1. Use the tether — GoPro’s adhesive mounts include a tether attachment point. Thread the included safety tether through the camera’s tether hole and attach to the mount or helmet strap. If the camera detaches, it won’t hit traffic.
  2. Check the quick-release buckle before every ride — pull the camera forward and backward. It should be solid with no movement.
  3. Loctite Blue on the chin mount screws prevents vibration loosening over time without permanently bonding (unlike Red Loctite).
  4. Replace worn thumb screws — the knurled plastic screws on GoPro mounts strip over time. Metal replacement screws (~$5 on Amazon) are far more durable for motorcycle use.

Adjusting Camera Angle for Correct Framing

The GoPro mount buckles allow adjustment in 30° increments. For most riders:

  • Chin mount: position 2 or 3 clicks down from horizontal gives correct horizon placement
  • Top mount: position 1 or 2 clicks down — less correction needed from the elevated position

The exact angle depends on your riding position. Riders with a more aggressive forward lean need less downward tilt than riders in an upright touring position. Do a quick test ride at the start, review the footage, and adjust one click at a time until the horizon sits correctly.

Using the Mount Advisor for Your Specific Setup

Helmet shapes and chin bar profiles vary significantly between brands. Our Mount Advisor tool identifies the specific mount hardware compatible with your helmet model and camera, and recommends the optimal angle adjustment for your riding position.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will a GoPro chin mount fit my Shoei/Arai/Bell helmet?

Most chin mounts include multiple adapter plates for different chin bar widths. GoPro’s own Helmet Chin Mount is compatible with the majority of major helmet brands. For Arai helmets specifically, the narrower chin bar sometimes needs the narrowest adapter plate — check the Mount Advisor for your specific model.

Can I remove an adhesive mount without damaging my helmet?

Yes, with care. Use a hair dryer to warm the adhesive pad for 30 seconds, then use dental floss slid underneath the mount to cut through the adhesive layer. Remove remaining adhesive residue with Goo Gone or isopropyl alcohol. There may be slight paint dulling under the pad if the helmet has a gloss finish.

How do I prevent the GoPro from vibrating loose mid-ride?

Three steps: (1) Check the quick-release buckle is fully engaged (listen for the click). (2) Apply Loctite Blue to the chin mount screws and allow to cure for 24 hours. (3) Use an anti-vibration mount pad underneath if you’re on a high-vibration engine. Replace the twist-lock buckle if you notice any play in the connection.

Official resources: GoPro official mount accessories | GoPro Hero 13 setup guide.

How to Set Up a Motovlogging Camera System: Camera, Mount, Mic and Workflow

Helmet Camera Setup Moto Vlog full information | Difference between gopro and action camera

What Motovlogging Needs From a Camera Setup

Motovlogging — recording yourself talking while riding — has different requirements than typical action-camera footage. You need the camera to capture your voice clearly over wind and engine noise, hold a stable face-to-camera framing, and run for the length of a real ride, not just a short clip.

Camera Choice

A wide field of view is important so the frame captures both your face and enough of the road/surroundings behind you for context. Battery life matters more here than in typical action-cam use, since motovlogging often means continuous recording for an entire ride rather than short clips — a camera with a swappable battery or one that can record while charging from a bike-mounted USB source has a real practical advantage.

Mounting

A chin mount is the standard choice for motovlogging because it keeps the camera close to mouth level for clear audio pickup and a natural talking-to-camera angle, and it’s less exposed to wind buffeting than a top-of-helmet mount. The trade-off is that a chin mount adds weight to the front of the helmet, so a lighter, more compact camera body is usually preferable to a larger one.

Audio: The Biggest Challenge

Wind noise is the single biggest obstacle to usable motovlogging audio. A few approaches address it: foam windscreens over the camera’s built-in mic reduce noise at moderate speeds but have limits at highway speed; an external lavalier or boom mic mounted closer to your mouth, run into a camera with a mic input, generally produces clearer results than any built-in mic; and some riders use in-helmet Bluetooth communication systems that route audio to the camera separately from the camera’s own microphone. Whatever the source, checking a short test clip at riding speed before committing to a full ride is worth the two minutes it takes.

Editing Workflow

A typical motovlogging workflow involves: reviewing footage and marking usable sections (most rides have far more footage than ends up in the final video), editing at proxy/lower resolution if your computer struggles with native 4K footage, basic color correction to fix the flat look common to action-camera footage, audio leveling to balance voice against ambient road/wind noise, and adding captions — increasingly expected on social platforms where videos are often watched without sound.

Putting It Together

The combination that works for most motovloggers starting out: a compact wide-FOV camera on a chin mount, an external mic if budget allows (even an inexpensive one is usually a bigger audio improvement than any built-in mic), and a simple, repeatable editing workflow rather than an elaborate one — consistency matters more than production complexity for building a following.

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